A drive chain is composed of a series of roller links and pin links, alternately connected together so as to be free to rotate: 
A drive chain is normally used as an endless chain
In order to connect the two ends of the chain to make it endless, it is necessary to use one of the following links:
The connecting link is easier to use, but does not offer the same level of safety and durability as a rivet link. For this reason, whenever possible a rivet link should be used. In any case a rivet link is required for motorcycles having an engine of 250cc or more.
CHAIN INSPECTION
Your chain should be frequently inspected for wear, tight joints, missing or damaged O-rings, and wear or damage to the components, especially as it pertains to the connecting link.
Chain wear can be verified by measuring its elongation after use. The most reliable and efficient method is as follows.
First, the chain must be cleaned and re-lubricated, then :
a) place the chain under tension:
- if the chain is assembled on the motorcycle, engage a low gear and rotate the back wheel so as to tension the upper strand of the chain;
- if the chain is not on the motorcycle, lay it on a horizontal plane, fix it at one end and apply a tension load of approx. 20 Kgs (45 lbs) to the other end;
b) with a vernier gage, or a precision drawing rule, measure the distance between the centers of two pins which are separated by a number N of links ( see next table):
WARNING!: The number N is obtained by counting the pin links as well as the roller links.
REGINA REFERENCE
INTERNATIONAL REFERENCE
CHAIN PITCH
N
MAX ACCEPTABLE LENGTH
NON O-RING CHAINS
O-RING CHAINS
54 - 90 - 124 - 125 - 126
415 - 420 - 428
12,70mm (1/2")
23
298 mm (11.732")
295,0 mm (11.650")
135 - 137 - 136 - 136.2
520 - 525 - 530 - 532
15,875 mm (5/8")
16
259 mm (10.197")
256,5 mm (10.098")
138 - 138.2
630 - 632
19,05 mm (3/4")
16
-
307,8 mm (12.118")
c) If the distance between N links is lower than the value of "MAX ACCEPTABLE LENGTH" shown in the above table, the chain can still be used .
If the distance is greater, the chain must be replaced.
INSPECTION AND REPLACEMENT OF THE SPROCKETS
The front and rear sprockets should be checked frequently for tooth wear (profile and thickness) and damage, and should be replaced when necessary.
WARNING!: If a new chain is assembled on worn or damaged sprockets, it will wear rapidly . To obtain the best performance, when replacing the chain, the sprockets should be replaced at the same time, in order to obtain the proper uniformity of all the drive components.
When replacing the sprockets, the dimensions of the original parts must remain the same.
When selecting a replacement front sprocket, always choose a heat-treated type.
For high power motorcycles, it is recommended to use also heat-treated rear sprockets (with induction hardened teeth), which offer good resistance to wear and loads.
If bolts, nuts or washers are in bad conditions, replace them.
After assembly, make sure that the sprockets do not have any eccentricity or wobbling while rotating.
The correct alignment between front and rear sprockets should be checked with the help of a straight edge or bar of sufficient length (1m or 40" at least):
a) place the bar against the side of the rear sprocket close to the center of rotation, so as to use the widest guiding surface;
b) check if the front sprocket is aligned within 1 mm (.04") with the straight edge.
When necessary, the alignment can be adjusted by using the tensioning screws or by using spacing washers; be sure not to compromise the alignment of the motorcycle wheels.
REPLACING A CHAIN WITH CONNECTING LINK
When servicing your motorcycle, always wear safety glasses and gloves.
Place the motocycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and free to rotate.
DISASSEMBLING THE CHAIN
Disengage the gear. Rotate the rear wheel until the connecting link of the chain is on the rear sprocket. With the help of the special pliers (P/N 805204) remove the spring clip, then disassemble the connecting plate and the connecting link fork. The chain will not be endless but will have two open ends.ASSEMBLING THE NEW CHAIN
By using the old connecting link, connect temporarily one end of the old chain with one end of the new chain (since it is only temporary, there is no need to fix it with the spring clip).
Then, pull slowly the other end of the old chain until the new chain rides around the front sprocket; proceed until the new chain reaches the rear sprocket. Disassemble the old connecting link and remove it along with the old chain.
Wrap both ends of the new chain on the rear sprocket so as to position them one after the other on two consecutive teeth.
Install the new connecting link. WARNING! The connecting link is already lubricated with a special grease to ensure high performance and long life: be careful to ABSOLUTELY AVOID removal of the lubricant from the pin surface, as this could seriously compromise the performance of the connecting link. This is particularly important with O-ring chains, as they cannot be re-lubricated.
Then:
NON O-RING CHAINS
O-RING CHAINS
a) Install the new connecting link fork into the two ends of the chain from the back side, taking care not to touch the pins in order not to remove the lubricant.
b) Install the connecting plate.
a) Check that the new connecting link fork has the O-rings (one for each pin) fully inserted until they touch the plate;
b) Fit the new connecting link fork into the two ends of the chain from the back side, taking care not to touch the pins in order not to remove the lubricant;
c) Fit the other two o-rings over the pins until they rest on the extended ends of the bushings;
install the connecting plate;
d) With the help of the special pliers (P/N 805203) strongly press together the two plates of the connecting link against the elastic resistance of the o-rings and expose the grooves of the pins.
Install the spring clip, and with the special pliers (P/N 805204) push it to snap into the grooves of the pins.
WARNING! The spring clip must be assembled in such a way that its closed end faces the direction of travel of the chain.
WARNING! Be careful not to bend or damage the spring clip during assembly. Make sure that the spring clip is perfectly seated into the grooves of the pins. Spring clips should not be used more than one time.
WARNING! Spring clips are subjected to heavy vibration in use: wear conditions should be frequently checked.
WARNING! Make sure that the chain does not rub against metallic parts of the vehicle, such as engine casting, fork arms, guides or tensioners.
REPLACEMENT OF A RIVETED ENDLESS CHAIN
When servicing your motorcycle, always wear safety glasses and gloves.
Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and free to rotate.
DISASSEMBLING THE CHAIN
To disassemble an endless riveted chain, you have to cut one link. The easiest way is to cut one link of the lower strand of the chain, where there is more room to operate.
Take the Nr.7 Chain Breaker (P/N 805330), then:
a) unscrew Bolt 1 until its tip is no longer visible;
b) unscrew the Shoulder Bolt 2; fit the chain into the Chain Breaker so that a pin is aligned with bolts 1 and 2;
c) screw the Shoulder Bolt 2 in until the chain position becomes fixed;
d) turn slowly Bolt 1 to force the chain pin out of its plate; (be sure that the tip of Bolt 1 pushes exactly on the head of the pin); proceed until the chain pin is disassembled from its plate and pressed out of the chain for at least one third of its length;
e) repeat the same operations a)-b)-c)-d) on the other pin of the link; remove the Chain Breaker and disassemble the cut link from the chain;
f) the chain is now open.
Note: the Nr. 7 Chain Breaker is factory set for disassembly of 15,875 mm (5/8") and 19,05 mm (3/4") pitch chains; the handle of Chain Breaker contains the Bolt and the Shoulder Bolt to disassemble the 12,70 mm (1/2") pitch chains.
If a Nr. 7 Chain Breaker is not available, the chain can be cut with the help of the general purpose Chain Breaker Nr. 1 (P/N 805000):
a) fit the Chain Breaker on the chain, making sure that the tip of punch 1 is perfectly centered on the head of the chain pin to be disassembled;
b) actuate punch 1 by rotating rod 2, and push the chain pin head out of its plate;
c) repeat the operations on the second pin of the link to be disassembled.
WARNING! When the Nr. 1 general purpose Chain Breaker is used to disassemble O-Ring chains , it is necessary to use the special shaped spacer (which is supplied together with Regina rivet links or connecting links spare parts); this spacer must be inserted under the link plate to be disassembled in order to protect the O-Rings from being squeezed by the action of the Chain Breaker, and to avoid the partial disassembling of the bushes of the roller link. The use of the shaped spacer is necessary to avoid damages to the chain.
ASSEMBLING THE NEW CHAIN
By using an old connecting link fork or rivet link fork, connect temporarily one end of the old chain with one end of the new chain;
then, slowly pull the other end of the old chain until the new chain rides around the front sprocket; proceed until the new chain reaches the rear sprocket.
Disassemble the old connecting link fork and eliminate it along with the old chain.Wrap both ends of the new chain on the rear sprocket so as to position them one after the other on two consecutive teeth.
Install the new rivet link.
WARNING! The rivet link is already lubricated with a special grease to ensure high performance and long life: be careful to ABSOLUTELY AVOID removal of the lubricant from the pin surface, as this could seriouly compromise the performance of the rivet link. This caution is particularly important with O-Ring chains, as they cannot be re-lubricated.
Then:
NON O-RING CHAINS
O-RING CHAINS
a) Install the new rivet link fork into the two ends of the chain from the back side, taking care not to touch the pins in order not to remove the lubricant; a) Check that the new rivet link fork has the o-rings (one for each pin) fully inserted until they touch the plate; b) Install the new rivet link fork into the two ends of the chain from the back side, taking care not to touch the pins in order not to remove the lubricant;
c) Install the other two o-rings over the pins until they rest on the extended ends of the bushings;
Rotate the rear wheel until the rivet link is positioned in the lower strand of the chain where you have more room to operate.
FIXING THE RIVET LINK
The rivet link must be closed, by press-fitting the link plate with the use of the Regina Press-Fit-Tool.
Use tool P/N 805181 for 12,70 mm (1/2") pitch chains,P/N 805182 for 15,875 mm (5/8") pitch chains,P/N 805183 for 19,05 mm (3/4") pitch chains.
a) Place the link plate between the holding blades 2 of the link plate carrier 1; check that it is fully inserted.
b) Fit the tool on the chain, inserting the centering pin 3 between the chain rollers in correspondence with the rivet link.
c) Turn by hand the bolt until the link plate holes reach the heads of the pins; tighten the bolt by hand making sure that the pins remain well aligned with the holes of the link plate.
d) With a ratchet wrench, tighten the link plate to full depth on the pins. Do not over press.
e) Unscrew the bolt and detach the chain.
Note! The Regina Press-Fit Tool is factory set to operate with the most common chains.
When servicing chains with oversized roller diameter, such as types 136.2 ORP (532) or 138.2 ORS (632), it is necessary to position the centering pin 3 to its lower width: this setup is obtained by loosening the fixing screw 5 and by lowering the centering pin 3.
When servicing ORT and ORP chains, where the pin link plates have the same profile as the roller link plates, it is necessary to place the plate 4 on the bottom of the Press-Fit-Tool (fitted on the centering pin 3).
RIVETING THE RIVET LINK
Use the Regina Rivet Tools:
P/N 805184 for 12,70 mm (1/2") pitch chains,P/N 805185 for 15,875 mm (5/8") pitch chains,P/N 805186 for 19,05 mm (3/4") pitch chains.
a) Pull plate 8 to open the positioning rods 9; place the chain into the tool so as to align punch 10 with the first pin to be riveted release plate 8. The chain will be correctly inserted into the tool and kept in place by rods 9.
b) Push by hand punch 10 to touch the head of the pin.
c) With a hammer, give a sharp blow to punch 10 so as to deform the head of the pin.
d) Rotate punch 10 by 45° approx. and repeat the operation.
e) Rotate again punch 10 by 45° approx. and repeat the operation two more times.
f) Release the positioning rods 9 by pulling plate 8; remove then chain and the place it again into the tool to correspond with the second pin;
repeat the procedure.g) Check that the chain link is free to articulate smoothly and that the O-Rings are not damaged.
Note! The Regina Rivet Tool is factory set to operate with the most common chains.
When servicing chains with oversized roller diameter, such as types 136.2 ORP (532) or 138.2 ORS (632), it is necessary to position the centering pins 11 to their lower width: this setup is obtained by loosening the fixing screws 12 and by lowering the centering pins 11.
After the riveting, the chain must be correctly tensioned by following the instructions of the next paragraph.
WARNING! Make sure that the chain, while driving, will not touch any metallic part of the vehicle, such as engine casting, fork arms, guides, tensioners or other parts.
CHAIN TENSIONING
Correct chain tensioning is extremely important for the efficiency and durability of the drive:
- Excessive chain tensioning,creates additional loads that are very dangerous as it increases the working load in the joints between pins and bushings, causing premature consumption of lubricant and accelerated chain wear; moreover, if the motorcycle is subjected to bumpy riding on rough road, the chain is subjected, by the up and down lever action of the swingarm, to extremely hard shocks that can lead to a premature failure of the chain and damage other parts of the motorcycle.
- Excessively slack chain, on the other end, is subjected to violent whipping during acceleration and deceleration; load on the chain will be much higher. The jumping action may cause the chain to fall off the sprockets, with possible severe damage to the vehicle and to the driver.
It is recommended to check and reset the chain tension based on the following frequency:
for road use: after the first 100 Km (60 miles); afterwards, every 400 Km (250 miles)
TENSIONING PROCEDURE
a) First, the chain must be set at maximum tension.
This occurs when the front sprocket and the rear sprocket are at the maximum distance. To obtain this condition, place a load on the rear wheel (ask somebody to sit on the motorcycle) until the centers of the front sprocket, the swingarm pivot, and the rear sprocket are aligned on the same line. The swingarm will be parallel to the ground.b) To adjust chain tension, follow the factory recommendations.If not available, proceed as follows: turn the tensioning bolts or cams until the lower strand of the chain, when taken in the center between the fingers, can freely oscillate a total of 10 - 15mm (.4 - .6") up and down (while the upper strand is tight).
c) Finally, fasten the rear wheel. This operation is best done when the chain is under tension. Engage a low gear, put a screwdriver between the chain and the rear sprocket, and turn the wheel so as to lock it in. Fasten the tensioning bolts or cams, while the tensioned chain keeps the wheel firmly in place.
Release the screwdriver: the operation is completed.
CLEANING THE CHAIN
If the chain is not too dirty, the operation of lubrication is normally sufficient to clean the chain. When the accumulation of dirt on the chain (sand, mud, asphalt particles or other foreign material) is excessive, the chain must be washed with a brush and kerosene or paraffin. After washing, the chain has to be dried immediatey with a jet of compressed air.
After off-road use, when the dirt buildup is heavy, wash the chain with a water jet, then dry it immediately with compresses air.
WARNING! : Avoid the use of steam or solvents.
When cleaning o-ring chains, avoid the use of hard brushes or other methods that could damage the o-rings.
WARNING! : After washing, immediately lubricate the chain as explained in the next chapter.
CHAIN LUBRICATION
Chain lubrication is of maximum importance for performance and service life of the chain.
Since the function of a lubricant is to reduce friction, a poor lubrication will cause an increase of friction, particularly in the working area between pin and bushing. The effect is an absorption of energy, which is tranformed into heat and leads to a decrease in efficiency of the transmission and to faster wear.
Moreover, the increase in temperature makes the lubricant more fluid - less efficient and more apt to escape from the chain joints.
Consequently, when the working temperature of the chain becomes higher than normal, it is time to re-lubricate the chain.
Other signs of poor lubrication are fast chain elongation, the appearance of reddish areas (due to rust), squeaks, and noise.
For correct lubrication, proceed according to the following instructions.
LUBRICATION OF NON O-RING CHAINS WITH SPRAY LUBRICANTS
There are many spray lubricants on the market, specifically designed for chain lubrication: most of them are adequate, but make sure that they do not contain caustic or corrosive solvents.a) Place the motorcycle on its center stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and free to rotate.
b) Quickly rotate the rear wheel as if going backwards.
c) Spray the lubricant inside the chain where the chain is engaging the sprocket. The lubricant should be directed between the inner and outer plates: the centrifugal force will force the lubricant into the pin/bushing working area.
d) Successively, lubricate the chain rollers as well.
e) After lubrication, wait at least 10-15 minutes to allow the solvents to evaporate before using the motorcycle.
f) The excess lubricant should be wiped away with a clean rag.
LUBRICATION OF O-RING CHAINS
Lubrication of o-ring chains is ensured by the lubricant that has been factory sealed by the o-rings into the internal bearing surfaces.
Nevertheless, a periodic chain lubrication is necessary to keep the o-rings moist and free from cracks, and to protect the metallic components from corrosion.
Use a mineral oil, preferably a SAE 80-90, avoiding the use of spray lubricants containing solvents which could damage the o-rings.
a)Brush the chain with oil, inside and outside.
b)After several hours, wipe away the excess lubricant with a clean rag.
WARNING! : The chain should be lubricated every 400 Km (250 miles) or more frequently if necessary.
WARNING! : If you wish to lubricate the chain immedialely after use, do not allow the chain to cool down, but lubricate it while it is still warm. The lubricant will be more fluid, and will penetrate into the chain.
WARNING! : Do not use the motorcycle immediately after lubrication. The lubricant, being more fluid (due to high temperature and/or to the presence of non completely evaporated solvent), will be immediately centrifugated away from the chain to the wheel and to the other parts of the motorcycle.
CHAIN DRIVE POTENTIAL PROBLEMS & CAUSES
NOISY DRIVE
Improper chain tension (too much or too little)
insufficient lubrication
misalignment of sprockets
non corresponding size of chain or sprocket (ex. 136 vs. 136.2)
chain hits against other parts of the vehicle
sprocket wear
chain wear
wear, failure or misalignment of other components of the drive (guides or tensioners)
CHAIN VIBRATION OR WHIPPING
excessive chain slack
misalignment of sprockets
non uniform wear of chain or sprockets
tight joints, seized articulations in the chain
THE CHAIN OVER-RIDES THE SPROCKETS
excessive chain elongation due to wear
excessive sprocket wear
improper chain tension (too slack)
misalignment of sprockets
misalignment of guides or tensioner
bent, damaged or wrong size sprockets
foreign material between chain and sprocket
WEAR ON THE INSIDE PLATES OF CHAIN, WEAR ON ONE SIDE OF FRONT SPROCKET AND ON OPPOSITE SIDE OF REAR SPROCKET
misalignment of sprockets
TIGHT JOINTS IN THE CHAIN (KINKING)
excessive chain tension
insufficient lubrication
misalignment of sprockets
chain corrosion, rust
wrong choice of chain (too weak for the bike power)
failure of o-rings
wrong assembly of rivet link or connecting link
foreign material ( sand, mud) in the chain joints
FAILURE OF CHAIN PINS, ROLLERS OR BUSHINGS
excessive loads, heavy shock loads (as for motorcycles without damper)
excessive sprocket wear or damage
excessive chain elongation due to wear
insufficient lubrication
improper chain tension
misalignment of sprockets
misalignment of guides or tensioner
non corresponding size of size or sprocket (ex. 136 vs. 136.2)
front sprocket with less than 15 teeth
foreign objects between chain and sprocket
FAILURE OF CHAIN LINKPLATES
chain hits or rubs against other parts of the vehicle
excessive chain tensioning
foreign objects between chain and sprockets
misalignment of sprockets
wrong choice of chain (too weak for the bike power)
corrosion due to battery acid, fuel or other chemicals
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